Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Wine Country

Monday I went to the wine country and saw both Franschoek and Stellenbosch. The first is a town that claims a strong French heritage due to relocation of many French Huguenots who took refuge there after being granted farms by the dutch government. I went to a museum about this, which was interesting for me since it is part of my heritage, though our ancestors went west instead of south. This museum also has a monument.











Then we went to the Boschendal Estate which has very typical architecture of the region (though I'm sure it was one of the nicest houses of its time). We had a nice lunch there, but my hosts do not drink alcohol, so I did not taste any wine.






















After that we went to the Spier Estate, which has a training facility for dogs that will chase of cheetahs without harming them (since they are often killed by farmers in this region), a famous restaurant, a hotel, and beautiful grounds.











The wine region is most striking because not only does it have lush hills covered with pretty vineyards, but it has high mountains on either side of the valley. I didn't get a good picture to show the perspective - but it is quite beautiful. Mom, count your blessings that the university in Stellenbosch teaches in Afrikaans, so I can't teach there - because I would love to live in that town. A beautiful small town in this amazing valley only 45 minutes from the city and the beaches. Of course - I'm about to move to a beautiful small valley town near vineyards that is only an hour from the ocean and just over to a nice city - so I can't complain :)

Some random things

First - I have just posted some pics to two old blog entries - one titled "Random Thoughts" from the first week I was here, and another called "The Weather and The Joys of Being Outside" from my 2nd week. You can see campus and the Rhodes Memorial on those posts now.

The crime here is a real problem, as I've mentioned before. There were 15 muggings on table mountain park this weekend alone. That's where I was hiking Saturday, though despite the difficulty of the trail we were on, there was a steady-stream of people on it though fewer near the top (perhaps due to the perfect weather that day?) We are going again this coming Saturday, in a group. This is another reason why one should hike this mountain with locals. They know the trails, where is safer, and that it's best to be in a group. And of course the ever-changing weather and unexpected rain makes it a dangerous mountain if someone is unaware.

Other big local news was a group of women mugged on a high-end golf course - apparently they ran screaming and the muggers didn't make off with anything except a few clubs... The local rock music radio station encourages people to report crime on a regular basis. Someone who was on bicycle was mugged on a trail not far from campus last week. That was just a bit higher up the mountain than the Rhodes memorial I went to both Friday and Monday.

It is understandable that there would be high crime here (especially muggings) with the huge discrepancy in incomes. Apparently 30% of the population here (which is better than much of the rest of South Africa) is un- or under-employed (like 1-2 days a week at most, not enough to live off). Only 30% of the people make enough money to pay taxes. The government wants to remove all non land-owned shacks by 2015 and have people living in "real" houses - it would be great if that happens. The low income housing places here are not what we would call houses - though they do have electricity and running water (which is major recent progress). These neighborhoods are surrounded by corrugated metal lean-tos as well. I'm told the neighborhoods are not as bad as the outskirts that can be seen from the highway. You can enter them on tours - I hear it is quite informative and people are friendly, and it's a good way to buy local crafts as well.

It is just amazing to hear what this country has gone through in the past 200 years, or the past 20 years - either way it is more than I could imagine. Today at afternoon tea a prof was speaking about how they used to boycott the government by refusing to go to class during college days, and the whole college would have to shut down for months at a time - and this was in the 80's. Apparently parts of the country had their own governance, too, and you needed a passport to travel within South Africa. My host spoke of a time in the late 80's when police came on campus, and in the fussing that was going on ended up putting a tear gas canister on top of the physics building. That day he was supposed to do a lab outside, and had to abandon it and take the students back inside when they saw the police presence. Apparently the police were not allowed on campus for a very long time.

Everyone here seems to have grown up in a very different situation too - from close-knit Muslim communities, to impoverished black communities, to privileged upper-class white communities. Some people speak of all the places they went as children, others speak of not being able to go places because they were "whites-only". Some lost their family homes due to re-settlement, while others were barely even aware of how the other-half were being treated.

Anyway - enough grim thoughts for the evening... Let's focus on the positive. People here LOVE their city, and are so proud of it. The mountain seems to tie everyone together, and once people come here they don't seem to want to leave.

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Lots and lots of flowers

Today I was picked up and taken up the west coast out of town to see the wildflowers. Another professor in the department took me around this time instead of my host. Tomorrow my host has worked out for me to go on a tour of the wine lands. Tuesday I'll have to get back to work! Today was very nice though. We went to a park on the coast that has some wildlife and lots of wild flowers. It also has a few beautiful beaches, and I played some on the sand and in the water. Among the animals I saw were ostriches and a zebra. I also saw some hoofed animals I didn't recognize. I'll have to ask the guy again what they were called. The flowers were absolutely terrific - so many vibrant colors, and the land was blanketed with them. I tried to get the perspective of the masses of them, and also up close to see their individual beauty. Some of the flowers had many colors even within a single flower or single clump of flowers, where others were vibrantly singular. After that we went to a small town called Darling where I bought some more gifts (at much better prices than in the city - and I got to meet the person who made the crafts) and we had a late lunch at a little cafe that was very Afrikaans. It was nice to experience something different from the city and the academic areas.. Here they are - and a pic of me playing in the water... proof there's more to staying here than my research!